You are viewing [info]shunn's journal

Bill and Laura rock the West...
 
 
28 August 2006 @ 05:12 pm
Bill and Laura rock the West...  
...or walk the rest.

In a first for me in recent memory, I took a long trip without a laptop. Laura and I went gallivanting around the West for nine days, and I sat down in front of a computer only once, for about ten minutes, the whole time. How liberating it was!

Of course, I had my new BlackBerry 7130c with me for text messaging and limited email access, and that was crucial, but otherwise I was completely unwired. And I didn't come unglued.

We flew from New York to Salt Lake City a week ago Saturday. Dropped off bags at my parents' house in Kaysville, then drove to Roy for locally brewed beer with my sister Sarah and her great new spousal unit Sal. Not to mention their many dogs. But the dogs didn't get any beer.

Sunday morning we hung out with my parents, then met my cousin and her terrific girlfriend for brunch in Salt Lake. Then it was north again to hang out with my sister Greta and kids at the parents' home, and even further north for some supper and beer with my sister Denice and her beau Matt.

Early Monday we flew to Las Vegas, where we rented a car and immediately drove northeast to St. George, Utah. We spent a few hours visiting my sister Tanja, her husband Roger, and their two kids, then struck out east along the Utah-Arizona border on lonely desert highways. We passed through Hilldale, Utah, and Colorado City, Arizona, infamous polygamist enclaves, just before sunset and found the towns eerily dead. Not a person sight, except for one minivan driven by a woman wearing a floral bonnet. Particularly creepy, I thought, was the sight of the Bank of Ephraim, which I had read about many times. We were glad to see the back of that stretch of road.

In Fredonia, Arizona, we turned north, and a police car parked at the side of the highway kept our speed down. As we passed, we realized it was a dummy behind the wheel—Latex Larry, as we later learned the locals call him.

Kanab, Utah, was our goal, and after checking into an Everyone Welcome Here hotel, we strode across the street to the Rocking V Cafe where we met Laura's friends (and now mine too) Caralee and Jimmy for dinner. The meal was outstanding; I had the Lime Peppered Trout Caponata, and everyone else was envious when they tasted it. It had been a long time since I'd had trout.

The next morning, Tuesday, we drove out to Caralee and Jimmy's spread east of town, where they're building a straw-bale house (actually three) on their sixty acres. (Follow along as they progress!) The view from the eventual site of the main house is absolutely stunning, and the photo does it not enough justice. There we met their huge pack of dogs, the alpha male of which, a huge shar-pei/rottweiler mix named Max, took a fancy to me. According to Caralee, I'm only the second stranger Max has ever gone belly-up for. My pheromones are strong, grasshopper!

The bulk of the morning and early afternoon were given over to hiking. The four of us drove in Jimmy's SUV through bits of the Grand Staircase—Escalante National Monument and south into Arizona to hike the undeveloped Paw Hole Trail. The trailhead itself was a chore to find, with the topographical map Caralee had obtained when purchasing our hiking permit not the most useful item ever. The road to the trailhead became too steep and sandy to pass, so after pushing the SUV free of the sand and maneuvering it in reverse to a safe parking spot, we continued on foot. A mile or two of arduous sandy hiking brought us to the trailhead, after which we roamed across desert scrub and red sandstone amidst gorgeous rock formations for a couple hours more. Many long-legged hares, some chipmunks, a few small lizards, and various copulating beetles were spotted along the way.

Our picnic afterward, with cold chicken, cole slaw, Key lime bars, and icy Negra Modelo in the shade of a big juniper, was what heaven should be.

After a comical interlude involving the attempted purchase of condoms at a local supermarket (not an Everyone Is Welcome establishment), and a nap, I sprang for dinner at Escobar's. I tried to eat only half to three-quarters of what was on my plate at every meal on this trip, but Escobar's defeated me. Before I knew it, my plate was clean.

Wednesday morning, Laura and I rolled out of town well before dawn. A couple of local geezers at the service station where we stopped for coffee gleefully relating the news of a woman who had died the day before in a 1,200-foot fall from Angel's Landing in Zion National Park. We were on our way to Zion ourselves, but only to drive through on the way back to Vegas (taking a different route than we had come by). The only deaths related to our journey were two cottontails among the many that attempted to dash across our path as we sped down the highway.

By the time we were almost out of Zion, the sky had brightened enough that we could see what a spectacular canyon we had driven through. The rest of the drive to Vegas was unexceptional, though the incredible backup in the security lines at McCarran was almost enough to cause us to miss our flight to Los Angeles.

Pictures forthcoming, along with a report on our Worldcon.


Tags:
 
 
Current Mood: sleepysleepy
 
 
( Post a new comment )
Peter Ould[info]pould on August 29th, 2006 08:41 am (UTC)
For future reference, where are the good drinking places in Utah apart from the Wasatch Brewery in Park City?
Comrade Leonid Ilyich Brezhnev[info]brezhnev on August 29th, 2006 07:39 pm (UTC)
Desert Edge in SLC. If Natasha is working there still by any chance, tell her that Alex in TX says 'hi'. She may remember signing a T-shirt for me.
William Shunn: Choices choices[info]shunn on August 30th, 2006 03:05 pm (UTC)
I don't know tons of drinking spots in Utah, having moved away whilst still a teetotaler. But spots I've enjoyed on trips back include Squatters Brewery and Red Rock Brewery in Salt Lake.
(Anonymous) on August 29th, 2006 03:49 pm (UTC)
From Laura, Bill's wife
I have to make some additional comments...those of you who know me will not be surprised by this. :)

It was a joy to get to spend time with some of Bill's siblings and their significant others on this trip. Often when we are in Utah, everyone comes to the house, which is lovely in its own way...we get to see all of the kids and catch up with everyone, but we rarely get any good one-on-one time which is necessary for building solid relationships.

Getting to hang out with Sarah again (she has come to visit us in NY!) and to get to know her fantastic husband Sal, and to see their new home and dogs was delightful. Being able to hang out with Denice (also a NY visitor!) and to spend some time getting to know her new beau Matt made me very happy. This was important to me because they are both amazing women who were in relationships with men who did not treat them well. I realize that it takes more than that for a relationship to have longevity, and given how much Bill and I like both Sal & Matt, we are thrilled, but I kinda feel like if you don't have "treated well" as a baseline, nothing else is really gonna matter anyway. So it has become my foundation metric.

My only sadness is that we did not get to spend enough time with Bill's parents--but look forward to remedying that soon! Maybe over the winter holidays...

We also got to see Tanja and Roger's gorgeous home, and to hang out with Alex and Lizzie, their incredibly smart and hilarious kids. Both kids have reached the age where it is a pleasure to hang out--they are articulate, curious, smmmarttttt, creative, and funny, and we had a hard time tearing ourselves away!

Then, onto Kanab. A bit o history here, if I may. Caralee and I worked together (closely) for over 3 years, in the late 1990s. We instantly became friends, but Caralee has that way about her, so I didn't necessarily feel as though it was because I offered her anything special. She is an AMAZING woman. Direct, intelligent, political, outspoken, funny as hell, perceptive, active, curious, creative, determined, artistic, sexy and gorgeous. Everything I want to be. We became friends as well as co-workers, and she hosted me at her and Jim's gorgeous house when they lived in Ft. Worth, and I will never forget that visit. Nor my first exposure to Wegmans's "Alphabet Soup" video. We lost touch when I left the company we shared, and although we spoke sporadically over the ensuing years, that was it. I thought of her often, and received emails periodically. "We've purchased land in Kanab and are buiding a home." "I am involved with the Kanab "Everyone is Welcome" campaign." "We lost our beloved dog Jackie to a rattlesnake." "We've been listening to Bill's podcast, and it sounds like you've finally got a winner!" When Bill and I started to plan this West Coast trip, trying to get to Kanab to see Caralee was one of my requirements, and I was THRILLED, and not just a little nervous, when it all worked out. Nervous nervous nervous. And then we walked into the restaurant where Jimmy and Caralee were having dinner when we arrived, and she stood up, and we hugged, and it was as though we had been speaking daily over all those years. I never felt so blessed in my life. We could have talked and caught up for DAYS, but the time we were able to spend together, hiking, eating, admiring their spectacular new home (well, their work on the home) was magical. I am so lucky.

And the picnic lunch? Caralee is an amazing cook, and is the one who gave me a subscription to Cooks Illustrated oh so many years ago. Which I still get. And have given to many others. And recommend HIGHLY. The chicken and key lime bars that Bill mentioned? The most recent edition. And if you haven't read it, made it, or subscribed, run out and do it already!! YUM! The coleslaw was Caralee's mom's recipe...which she did promise to me, and I will get... :)

For me, the PRE-WorldCon trip was majestic. WorldCon was lovely, especially getting to meet some specific folks that I had heard about and seeing other people that it had been toooo long since I'd seen. I'll comment on Bill's synopsis when he writes it, but the route we took TO Anaheim was balm for my soul and food for my heart. Okay, I'm done.

William Shunn: Bilmo: Blushing[info]shunn on August 30th, 2006 05:00 pm (UTC)
Re: From Laura, Bill's wife
Great write-up! Thank you!
Comrade Leonid Ilyich Brezhnev[info]brezhnev on August 29th, 2006 07:39 pm (UTC)
Wow -- that Bank of Ephraim looks like the Kirtland Safety Society meets the S&L crisis of the '80s.
William Shunn: Le Penseur[info]shunn on August 30th, 2006 05:01 pm (UTC)
Polygamists and embezzlement—two peas too long apart.
(Anonymous) on August 29th, 2006 08:33 pm (UTC)
After a comical interlude involving the attempted purchase of condoms at a local supermarket (not an Everyone Is Welcome establishment)...

Do tell.
William Shunn: Brad Dourif as Doc Cochran[info]shunn on August 30th, 2006 05:06 pm (UTC)
Can't wait to hear Laura's take
Oh, just that no one in the giant, nearly deserted supermarket knew where to find the condoms, and everyone seemed faintly panicked about locating them. After leading us on a merry wild-goose chase, a teenaged stockboy finally tracked down the one three-pack to be had anywhere in the store—tucked away in a bottom corner of one of the candy racks right at checkout. An old grizzled cowboy type glowered at us as Laura examined the pack, found it very dusty, and put it back.

We found an okay selection in downtown Kanab at the Zion Pharmacy (an Everyone Welcome Here establishment).

Truth be told, I was mortified by the whole incident, having grown up in that great state of embarrassment about matters sexual, but I can finally, retroactively see the humor in the situation.
(Anonymous) on September 2nd, 2006 04:01 am (UTC)
Max the Dog
Just for the record, because Max wanted me to correct you, he's a Shar-Pei/Rottweiler, not a drop of Akita blood in him. So he feels better now that I've mentioned that.

Laura, you were much to kind in your description of me, but your visit was a ton of fun and it was great meeting Bill, too. Seeing you again was a real thrill. Next time: Bryce Canyon!
Caralee
William Shunn: Fuzz Amongst the Tulips[info]shunn on September 2nd, 2006 02:25 pm (UTC)
Re: Max the Dog
Did not mean to impugn Max's parentage! I somehow knew Akita was not right, but what I was remembering, Shiba Inu, really didn't sound right either. I will correct the entry.
...or walk the rest.

In a first for me in recent memory, I took a long trip without a laptop. Laura and I went gallivanting around the West for nine days, and I sat down in front of a computer only once, for about ten minutes, the whole time. How liberating it was!

Of course, I had my new BlackBerry 7130c with me for text messaging and limited email access, and that was crucial, but otherwise I was completely unwired. And I didn't come unglued.

We flew from New York to Salt Lake City a week ago Saturday. Dropped off bags at my parents' house in Kaysville, then drove to Roy for locally brewed beer with my sister Sarah and her great new spousal unit Sal. Not to mention their many dogs. But the dogs didn't get any beer.

Sunday morning we hung out with my parents, then met my cousin and her terrific girlfriend for brunch in Salt Lake. Then it was north again to hang out with my sister Greta and kids at the parents' home, and even further north for some supper and beer with my sister Denice and her beau Matt.

Early Monday we flew to Las Vegas, where we rented a car and immediately drove northeast to St. George, Utah. We spent a few hours visiting my sister Tanja, her husband Roger, and their two kids, then struck out east along the Utah-Arizona border on lonely desert highways. We passed through Hilldale, Utah, and Colorado City, Arizona, infamous polygamist enclaves, just before sunset and found the towns eerily dead. Not a person sight, except for one minivan driven by a woman wearing a floral bonnet. Particularly creepy, I thought, was the sight of the Bank of Ephraim, which I had read about many times. We were glad to see the back of that stretch of road.

In Fredonia, Arizona, we turned north, and a police car parked at the side of the highway kept our speed down. As we passed, we realized it was a dummy behind the wheel—Latex Larry, as we later learned the locals call him.

Kanab, Utah, was our goal, and after checking into an Everyone Welcome Here hotel, we strode across the street to the Rocking V Cafe where we met Laura's friends (and now mine too) Caralee and Jimmy for dinner. The meal was outstanding; I had the Lime Peppered Trout Caponata, and everyone else was envious when they tasted it. It had been a long time since I'd had trout.

The next morning, Tuesday, we drove out to Caralee and Jimmy's spread east of town, where they're building a straw-bale house (actually three) on their sixty acres. (Follow along as they progress!) The view from the eventual site of the main house is absolutely stunning, and the photo does it not enough justice. There we met their huge pack of dogs, the alpha male of which, a huge shar-pei/rottweiler mix named Max, took a fancy to me. According to Caralee, I'm only the second stranger Max has ever gone belly-up for. My pheromones are strong, grasshopper!

The bulk of the morning and early afternoon were given over to hiking. The four of us drove in Jimmy's SUV through bits of the Grand Staircase—Escalante National Monument and south into Arizona to hike the undeveloped Paw Hole Trail. The trailhead itself was a chore to find, with the topographical map Caralee had obtained when purchasing our hiking permit not the most useful item ever. The road to the trailhead became too steep and sandy to pass, so after pushing the SUV free of the sand and maneuvering it in reverse to a safe parking spot, we continued on foot. A mile or two of arduous sandy hiking brought us to the trailhead, after which we roamed across desert scrub and red sandstone amidst gorgeous rock formations for a couple hours more. Many long-legged hares, some chipmunks, a few small lizards, and various copulating beetles were spotted along the way.

Our picnic afterward, with cold chicken, cole slaw, Key lime bars, and icy Negra Modelo in the shade of a big juniper, was what heaven should be.

After a comical interlude involving the attempted purchase of condoms at a local supermarket (not an Everyone Is Welcome establishment), and a nap, I sprang for dinner at Escobar's. I tried to eat only half to three-quarters of what was on my plate at every meal on this trip, but Escobar's defeated me. Before I knew it, my plate was clean.

Wednesday morning, Laura and I rolled out of town well before dawn. A couple of local geezers at the service station where we stopped for coffee gleefully relating the news of a woman who had died the day before in a 1,200-foot fall from Angel's Landing in Zion National Park. We were on our way to Zion ourselves, but only to drive through on the way back to Vegas (taking a different route than we had come by). The only deaths related to our journey were two cottontails among the many that attempted to dash across our path as we sped down the highway.

By the time we were almost out of Zion, the sky had brightened enough that we could see what a spectacular canyon we had driven through. The rest of the drive to Vegas was unexceptional, though the incredible backup in the security lines at McCarran was almost enough to cause us to miss our flight to Los Angeles.

Pictures forthcoming, along with a report on our Worldcon.


Tags:
 
Copyright © 1995-2012 by William Shunn.
All rights reserved, except where explicitly specified otherwise.
write to feedback AT shunn DOT net